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In the case of antifouling red we do have photographic proof of the color. No matter what the color, people always want samples from Titanic’s wreck. Many model representations of antifouling red are either too red or too brown and are usually too dark. For a good scale appearance, any white should not be too bright but should be toned down with yellow or gray tinting. White painted part of hull, deck houses, lifeboat hulls and other structures painted white, #4 cargo hatch coamings. This is a black which has faded somewhat. Main hull, top of funnels, all cargo hatch coamings except #4 (P&S),waterways, rigging, and other structures painted black. For the less experienced my advice would be that if you are in doubt, go flat. The experienced modeler will know what to do regarding this issue. Scales roughly 1/144 or larger are the only ones which I would even consider slightly moving from pure flat to either eggshell or satin finishes. The smaller the scale of the model being built, the more the colors should tend toward “flatness”. The simplest guide to these colors would be to make them all flat. One aspect of colors used by the modeler which is of importance is the relative gloss or lack of same in these colors. Black and white film of the time caused colors with red content to appear much darker than they actually were. Important Note: When viewing period black and white photos of the Olympic class ships which appear in these plans, colors which have any red content will appear to be a darker shade than they actually are. So these colors didn’t come out of thin air but are sampled from sources thought to be the closest to the actual colors. The BS381C chart was a collection of commonly used colors in the early part of the 20th century. These are the particular colors which I sampled directly from photos of these ships. Several of the colors used on the Olympic class were also used by shipping lines which continued into the era when color photography was widely used. One might ask: Where did these particular shades come from? Almost every shade in my chart was sampled from either color photos of the particular item or from the BS381C color chart. These are the colors I would use if I were building a model today. I make no claim that these are “the” shades of the colors. After all of that I have decided which shades I believe are closest to those which appeared on the actual ships. I have read detailed analyses and rationales for different shades. I have seen most of the suggested shades for the various colors. Even after the best analysis of the colors has been done, there is still a component of subjectivity in almost all of the colors.
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There have been examinations of the colors which have probably narrowed the range of probable shades of the various colors. This guide is not meant to be an academic treatise on the colors.
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This has caused endless debate about the shades of the various colors found on these ships. The value of this particular photo is limited. The only exception is a long distance color photo which included Olympic in 1928. Although color photography existed during the time of the Olympic class ships, there are no known color photos of any of these ships. This color guide is included here for the modeler.